Alumnae

Graduate-Owned Business Feature
Leah Chase of

Dooky Chase Restaurant

Throughout its 136+ year history, St. Mary’s Academy has educated and prepared many young women who have gone on to serve as public servants, educators, religious, entrepreneurs, and more.

This issue’s Graduate-Owned Business column features a remarkable woman who has worn all those hats.

She has been featured in numerous books including: “The Dooky Chase Cookbook,” “And Still I Cook,” “Down Home Healthy: Family Recipes of Black American Chefs,” “Leah Chase: Listen, I Say Like This,” “Family of the Spirit Cookbook: Recipes and Remembrances from African American Kitchens, Featuring Verta Mae Grosvenor and Leah Chase,” and “Where the Natives Feast in New Orleans: A Secret Guide to Local Restaurants,” all of which can be purchased online at Amazom.com, or in bookstores.

Leah Chase, renowned chef, author, television personality, civic leader, and patron of the arts, arrived in New Orleans in 1937 for the sole purpose of attending St. Mary’s Academy. Shortly after graduating, she began working at the Colonial Restaurant on Chartres Street, and has been in the restaurant business ever since.

I recently met with Mrs. Chase at her restaurant where we exchanged our fondest Maryite Memories.

As her daughter, Stella, directed me into the dining room I couldn’t help but marvel at the similarities between Mrs. Chase and her restaurant, both of which despite, or perhaps because of, being a little faded and worn around the edges, possess a regal air. From the crown molding and plaster fixtures of old New Orleans, to the more recent works of some of the city’s most talented African-American artists, the ornate dining room is both cozy and enchanting.

When the icon herself walked through the door, I must admit I was a little intimidated. I stood and introduced myself, including my parents’ names, and Mrs. Chase, after studying my face for a few minutes said, “You look like your grandfather’s people. Your mother’s father.” What a pleasant icebreaker – I was her captive audience as she talked to me about my ancestors, many of whom I had heard of, but had never known. Needless to say, the intimidation factor immediately vanished, and we settled in for a most pleasant afternoon chat.

KTD ~ What was it like, arriving in the big city after having lived all your life in a rural area?

Leah Chase ~ Coming to the city was frightening, but being with the sisters made it bearable. I had been taught by the Sisters of the Holy Family in Madisonville, LA, so I wasn’t among strangers. I stayed with my aunt on Allen and Galvez Streets, and I walked to St. Mary’s Academy [on Orleans] every day. I was homesick in the beginning.

KTD ~ How did you finally overcome your homesickness?

Leah Chase ~ The sisters were helpful. When my aunt had a problem, the nuns let me stay in the convent for a while. My parents couldn’t afford to pay, but they sent strawberries and things to the nuns. Sr. Borgia was really nice to me. She was a dynamite teacher – brilliant. Sr. Ann, who passed away a few years ago, looked out for me. They were very helpful and good to me, which eased my anxieties.

KTD ~ What life lessons did you learn from SMA that you continue to carry with you?

Kids today take everything for granted. The nuns taught us to appreciate life, and to look for the good in life. They instilled in us the importance of being with people who would lift us up. The nuns brought in people who would be positive role models for us. I remember them bringing in [boxer] Joe Lewis when he was world champion. They introduced us to people who were moving and doing things in life so that they could inspire us.

They instilled in us the importance of having pride in oneself. That is the one thing you can take anywhere in life – be proud of what you do, of who you are.

KTD ~ How did the school’s strict rules benefit you later in life?

Leah Chase ~ Of course we thought they were too strict – skirt had to be a certain length, you had to wear slips, blouses had to be pressed, etc. We thought it was corny, but it didn’t kill us, and we learned to follow and respect rules.

The good thing about uniforms was that it made everybody equal. For example, I was poor, but came to school looking like everybody else thanks to the uniform. We didn’t know the rich from the poor, and the Sisters never made a difference.

KTD ~ So, the Sisters built your self-esteem?

Leah Chase ~ They made you feel your worth. Behind those doors, no matter your status, you never felt any less than anybody else. If we can all make a kid feel like somebody, take him in, and build him up, he’ll succeed. Those are the things that the nuns did well. Everybody – even politicians – should heed that advice.

KTD ~ We currently have quite a few graduates working at St. Mary’s, and I believe they all try to follow the teachings of the Sisters. Any advice for them?

Leah Chase ~ Remember the good things, and bring them back to the kids. Find their talent, and encourage it – no matter what it is. I loved to iron, and I felt good about that. The Sisters made me feel that I could iron better than anybody else! So, I ironed blouses. Simple things that make us feel good about our abilities are so very important. Speaking of ironing, I love to see those pleats all stiff and pressed! The girls look beautiful in their uniforms

KTD ~ Today’s schools have such discipline problems. What made the strict discipline work so well for St. Mary’s Academy?

Leah Chase ~ The nuns themselves were so disciplined. Their habits were in order. The discipline they had themselves flowed over to the girls, and made the rules easy to enforce. If you follow the rules yourself, and you’re at the top, the girls see you doing right, and they want to be like the leader, so they follow the rules.

KTD ~ one thing that has remained at St. Mary’s is that we begin and end each day with prayer….

Leah Chase ~ Prayer is so important. I don’t care what you say, and what people tell you – all you have to do is look around and you know there’s a superior being who you have to thank for small favors.

Daily prayer also teaches the kids to trust in Jesus. That’s a good thing. You have to have something [other than material things] to believe in. Kids today define success by money – that’s not it. Success is a person who has learned to live, to appreciate life, and who does for others. It’s not about you. This world is not about you. A successful person has to do for others, and help bring them up to what they need to be doing in order to be successful.

Those are the teachings from the Sisters of the Holy Family that have stuck with me.

KTD ~ When a guest comes to Dooky Chase, will they get a meal prepared by Leah Chase, or do you pretty much delegate and supervise in the kitchen now?

With a big laugh, Mrs. Chase responds - I can’t delegate! Just like the older nuns, I don’t have anybody to delegate to! It’s hard to get people to do what you tell them to do. You must repeat, and I’m getting too old for that – no patience to repeat myself!

KTD ~ Any advice to our young, and future, Maryites?

Leah Chase ~ We have to keep on walking. Keep going. Keep trying. Kids need to learn this. When you’re young, that’s the time to try things, to look ahead to see where you’re going. Look for a place that you’ll fit, and fill a need. Then put your niche down.

I have only a high school education, but I used good common sense. I figured out where I could move Leah. If that motivator was cooking – so be it. Everybody’s got to eat, right? So I’m serving others while advancing myself.

I thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon with Mrs. Chase, during which I was also able to chat with her daughters, Stella and Leah, and her grandson, Trevor, all of whom are as personable and warm as she is. As our time together regrettably came to an end, Mrs. Chase left me with one final word of wisdom ~

“Most important, whatever you do, do it well. Serve others and yourself well. If you do something 100 times wrong, you’d better know yourself that it’s wrong. What if somebody comes along and recognizes that it’s wrong? You’ll be so embarrassed! Why not try to do the right things all the time? Recognize your wrongs, and then make them right. “

Please support this issue’s Graduate-Owned Business:

Dooky Chase Restaurant

2301 Orleans Ave, New Orleans, La. 70119

(504) 821-0600.

Your out-of-town guests can also order a gallon or two of Leah’s world-famous gumbo pre-packaged for shipping to take back home with them.